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Cafe on a farm

The Irish chef who said goodbye to Gordon and Jamie and left London for the good life in rural Somerset and set up Silver's Pantry

THE VIBE

You’re on a farm. With fresh country smells, a bit of mud – and some goats.  Chef Steven Kiernan swapped a London life working in celebrity hotels and restaurants (Gordon Ramsey’s Bread Street Kitchen, Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen, Soho Hotel, Kensington Roof Gardens…) for the rural lifestyle and set up just outside Taunton.

Named after his daughter Silver, the cafe is totally unpretentious, all beams, mismatched chairs, a wood burner…

SCOFF & QUAFF

Come here for their brilliant breakfasts, lunches, brunches and afternoon tea. Breakfasts include the full works, a veggie full works plus eggs every which way (like Eggs Doo-dah, soft poached eggs, with spinach, smoked salmon, toasted muffin, hollandaise sauce and paprika), pancakes, spiced porridge, a super food bowl packed with avocado, salmon, pumpkin seeds and more. At lunchtime, they throw classic sandwiches (BLT, steak melt, New York style pastrami,  bacon), smoked salmon bagels and wraps, plus some super sounding specials – like lamb chickpea and chorizo pie – into the mix.

Here’s the ever so cheesey leek, stilton and walnut fritatta

…and spicy tuna (mature cheddar, carrot, spring onion and chilli) wrap.

Saturday brunch – specials like chorizo and red pepper stew with ducks’ eggs. Splendid afternoon teas which include Eton Mess. Huge range of coffees, Teahugger’s teas and hot chocs– salted caramel mmmm – and cold drinks.  Steven beavers away in the open kitchen – everything’s made to order (natch).

DON’T RUSH OFF

Don’t leave before picking up some artisan foodstuffs.

Have a browse around Bare & Willow’s vintage and new garden/homewares stuff or get a picture framed at the other end of the cafe or slope off across the yard to the carefully curated women’s fashion and accessories shop Allotment.

MUDDY VERDICT

Good for:  Super relaxed all day breakfasts, brunch and lunch, coffee and home made cakes with your gal pals – with a spot of shopping thrown in. Bring the kids – they’ll love the grub and the goats. Splendid afternoon teas. No traffic jams into town; easy free parking.

Not for: Don’t rock up in the evenings. Don’t dress up.

The damage: Breakfast or lunch for around a tenner. Pantry Breakfast £8.95;  Eggs Doo-dah £9.75; sandwich from £7.95.  Afternoon teas £15.95.

Opening hours Tues to Saturday from 9am to 3pm. Breakfast menu served from 9am to 12pm; lunches from 12pm to 3pm (but you can still get the highlights of breakfast menu at lunch).

Silver’s Pantry, Prockers Farm, Prockters Farm, West Monkton, TA2 8QN. Tel 01823 413443. willowsofsomerset.co.uk

Find more ideas here

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The Urban Guide to the Countryside - Somerset